Viewing volcanoes from the air on Hawaii's Big Island

I'm an admitted National Park geek, so on a trip to the Big Island of Hawaii, that was a must-see destination.

Since we’re staying on the drier western coast of Hawaii’s Big Island, we must drive across the island to Hilo for our tour of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park with Paradise Helicopters. When we leave, the topography along Hwy 19 is barren—a black lava landscape with occasional sprouts of brown fountain grass waving in the breeze.  

Red-hot lava deep in the crater

As the elevation increases from sea level to 2,000 feet, irrigated lawns and blossoming hibiscus are more common, although they look out of place still.  Eventually green hills line the background beyond the lava fields; and the landscape changes to palm trees, verdant valleys, even forested areas as we near the wetter eastern coast of the island.

Steam rises from the churning lava pits

We arrive at the Hilo International Airport and check in for our 11:30 tour. Maybe we’re crazy, but we choose the open door tour—50 minutes of flying above active volcanoes strapped into a whirling helicopter. with no doors to contain our bodies. We’re given waist-pack life jackets (thanks!) and earphones for communicating with the pilot and each other.
 
Another couple will fly with us, so passengers are loaded according to size. Being the smallest I’m directed to the center seat in front. The views are good, but I’m squished between the pilot and Larry, whose only constraint is a five-point harness. Needless to say, he holds on tightly to his camera.

No obstructions for Larry's photos

As we ascend to 2500 feet, we see fiery red lava spewing out of several holes in the ground. Flying over the countryside we see towns below and tall trees planted for wind protection.

Our pilot tells us that Hilo gets 196 inches of rain a year, while Mountain View—only five miles away—gets 298 inches of rain annually. That’s an incredible 100 inches difference in a very short space, but it explains the lush vegetation of the region.

Waterfalls flow into the river creating beautiful but
dangerous conditions for swimmers.

Around the volcanoes the landscape is steel gray, rocky, and pock-marked from previous explosions. In other places lava on the ground is layered like slabs of slate. After the eruption of 1969 blasted away the remaining road, everyone had to be evacuated from the steamy “shield” volcanoes. We marvel at all this from our bird's eye vantage point.



The helicopter that took us over the lava fields

A helicopter ride is an excellent way to see volcanic action in real time as well as remains from older lava flows. However, the rocky, desolate moon-like landscape changes as the Wailoa River and Wailuku River wind through state parks near Hilo.  From the helicopter, the contrast is vast, but it’s easy to understand the amazing attraction of opposites--fire and water--for visitors and locals.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Touring the Big Island of Hawaii and Hilton Waikoloa Village

It's all about water at Hilton Waikoloa Village

A tropical paradise awaited my first visit to the Big Island of Hawaii. We had booked a five-night stay at the Hilton Waikoloa Village, and after canceled and delayed flights on the front end, managed to get there for four of those nights. Although we arrived after dark, I immediately knew this resort was special, and we would have a magnificent Hawaiian holiday after all.

Hotel accommodations are spread throughout the 63-acre resort.

Located on the dry side of the island, volcanic activity is evident as soon as you leave the airport.  A two-lane highway is bordered by black lava and jagged boulders. People have created a form of graffiti using small white rocks placed on the black lava to spell out names and dates.

Once we entered the 63-acre resort, the landscape metamorphosed into brilliant gardens, swaying palm trees, and lovely ocean views—the quintessential Hawaiian vista. Resort amenities include five swimming pools, dozens of water features including fountains and bridges, dolphin pool, and gorgeous landscaping everywhere.

Sunset from Budda Point at Hilton Waikolao Village

You’ll get plenty of exercise walking on paved paths, but a shuttle train will also transport visitors around the property. Magnificent statues and artwork filled all areas of the resort. I especially enjoyed art pieces, many with an Asian influence, that decoraed long hallways. A variety of colorful (and sometimes squawking) birds added to the tropical ambience.

Take a helicopter ride to see lava fields.

Guests can dine at a variety of restaurants, from casual to upscale. A favorite was the Malolo Grill where we enjoyed dinner on a back patio by the light of table-side torches. A walk in the moonlight capped the romantic evening.  Sunset viewed with an appetizer of wine and cheese at Budda Point near the Ocean View Tower was another perfect moment. Most mornings we ate breakfast on our balcony; since our room was in the Ocean View Tower soothing rhythms of the ocean provided a relaxing start the day.

Active volcanoes on the Big Island still put out glowing, steamy lava

Our excursions included an exciting full-day tour to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Another day we drove to Hilo, on the lush, wet side of the island, for an open-door helicopter tour of the lava fields, a visit to Akaka Falls State Park, ziplining excursion with Skyline Eco Adventures, and a stop at Laupahoehoe Point Park for awesome views of waves crashing against the rugged shore.

Zip line near Hilo on the lush, humid side.

Golf at the Beach Course was fun but challenging because of a strong—but normal—wind. Beautiful views of the ocean made up for gusts blowing hair across my face.

One of the most spectacular sights on the Big Island is Waipio Lookout at Kukuihaele Park, about an hour north of the resort. The first evening we stopped there a huge cloud bank obscured the wavy coastline. Returning on a clear day we were rewarded with outstanding views of the coast and Waipio Valley.

Waipio means wavy coast

Then we headed south to the busy tourist town of Kona, a great place for a seafood lunch, walking along the shore, and shopping. I was struck by the huge contrast of drab, brown landscape on the drive there and the deep blue saturation of the ocean. We ventured out to Kahauu Beach near Keauhou Bay, south of Kona and waded in the rock-studded water.

Beach golf course overlooks the ocean.

Too soon it was time to leave the Big Island. But our next stop was Kauai, another perfect example of Hawaiian paradise.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

 

 

Lava flows continue in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

After driving from the Big Island’s dry southeast shore through volcanic dunes, created when fine sand blown by trade winds piles up, we begin to appreciate the unique topography of this youngest and largest of the Hawaiian islands. Unlike Kauai, which has had millions of years to stabilize (no volcanic eruptions) and bloom into a tropical paradise, the Big Island of Hawaii continues to evolve.

Rising gases are a result of volcanic activity.

Five volcanoes make up the land mass of the Big Island. Kohala on the northern tip is the oldest; Mauna Kea at more than 13,000 feet is the tallest, and Mauna Loa is the largest by sheer volume. An active volcano, it erupts about every 25 to 50 years (last eruption was in 1984). Kilauea, home of legendary volcano goddess Pele, has been erupting continuously for more than 30 years with new lava flows that started in summer 2014 threatening to devour more roads and homes.

This landscape was recognized for its historic and geologic significance and became Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the United States’ 13^th national park, in 1916, even before Hawaii was a state. 

Our tour arrives at Jaggar Museum, and we observe glowing displays of red-hot lava in the crater there.  We walk steamy Sulfur Banks Trails filled with craters bubbling up strong- smelling sulfur dioxide gas. Then we drive the winding Chain of Craters Road where magma swells and forms a rift along which eruptions occur.  A 36-mile round-trip drive, Chain of Craters Road descends 3,700 feet to the coast and ends at a 2003 lava flow.

The volcanic rift is easily seen in this photo.

The caldera is easily accessible by car, which provides an excellent opportunity to see flowing lava. Since the lava’s path changes constantly, check with the Kilauea Visitor Center to get the latest report on where to see this.

Nate, our guide leads us to a remote area where we walk carefully on what resembles a moon scape, dusty and drab and jagged, to see the aftermath of the eruption of Mauna Ulu. Hills and small craters cover the area, and it’s very windy and chilly in late afternoon. But it’s such an unusual scene that we are glad to experience it. Spotty patches of vegetation creep in ridges as plant life adapts to this most improbable place. Even where it’s dry, the so-called fog drift provides much needed moisture.

Walking on a lava field

At sunset, Nate drives to his secret place where we dine in semi-darkness. He has planned a treat and invites us to follow him down a path, clutching flashlights and jackets against the night chill. Many tourists go to Jaggar Museum to witness what we see close-up in the dark sky--a brilliant red plume rising from the ground. We’re standing beside an active lava display, all the more spectacular for the darkness that surrounds us--—the crowning glory of our tour .

Vegetation is just beginning to appear after this lava
flow. No reconstruction has taken place here.

The gate to Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is open 24 hours every day. There is only one entrance to the park as the eruption from Kilauea from that began in 1983 blocked the other entrance. Since the eruption continues today, the road hasn’t been repaired leaving a 10-mile gap where vehicles cannot drive. 

Check on updates from the summer 2014 eruption. if you plan to visit

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

 

Exploring volcanoes that shaped the geology of Hawaii's Big Island



Remnants of volcanic eruptions cover the landscape on the
Big Island's dry side.

We hear about volcanic eruptions in Hawaii and marvel at the fiery red molten lava that threatens to destroy homes and property. But the fact is that eruptions have been continuous for more than 35 years in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. The thought is hard to comprehend until we start a tour from the dry, rocky side of the island to the more tropical and humid coast.

We meet few cars on Saddle Road (Hwy 200), a deserted span that cuts across the middle of island instead of following the coastline. Brown tufts of fountain grass pop up along the road with a few mesquite trees scattered around. The ground is covered with remnants of past volcanic activity.This is mostly ranch land with tradewinds blowing across the island that shake our van.



Vegetation begins to dot the barren land as we move closer
to the wetter, tropical side of the island.

The entire Hawaiian Island chain was created by volcanoes, which still fill the ocean for 18,000 feet below the surface. When there’s a hole in the earth’s crust, heat comes up from the mantle causing lava to dribble out rather than blasting the top off. The entire Big Island is a hot spot with a constant flow of lava in what is now the protected park.

As the youngest island in the chain, Hawaii is made up of five volcanoes that are constantly changing. Mauna Loa, an active volcano that last erupted in 1984, is the largest mountain in the world by volume. Even though only the tip is visible above water, it makes up 60 percent of the island.



Leaving Thurston Lava Tube, a massive lava cave.

As we enter the national park our guide explains that we’re going back to the birthplace of the islands. Our first stop is a lava tube, a cave-like structure that we can walk inside. In its natural state with rocks, dripping water, and slippery algae, we’re give flashlights to maneuver  through the dark.

Hiking on sharp lava. Some vegetation is creeping through
the solid rock.

Our guide explains that there are two types of lava—a smoother, spongy variety and craggy volcanic rock that is as sharp as a Brillo pad. At Huaka Crater we hike a bit off the beaten path and experience this type of lava—it sounds like walking on glass and can cut if you happen to fall on it. This deep crater contains rocks as large as automobiles at the bottom that were offered as gifts to Pele, volcano goddess to whom Hawaiians believe they owe the very existence of their island. We see a curiosity, a lava tree: Lava from the 1979 flow surrounded the trunk causing the tree to die but leaving a perfect, empty mold.




Deep craters like Huaka can be seen at several places in
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

I’ll describe more scenes from the park in a future article.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier