Getting down and dirty with nature at the Galapagos Islands

Rugged shoreline at James Bay on Santiago Island

“Come quickly,” our naturalist guide called to my husband Larry and me as we kayaked in sparkling turquoise water off the shore of Santa Fe Island in GalapagosNational Park. “A baby sea lion has just been born,” she gushed.  Tour guests in the panga (rubber raft) with the guide had just witnessed the amazing delivery.

Most islands, including Sombrero Chino, were home to sea lions.

This was the fifth day of our eight-day expedition to explore several islands in the eastern portion of the Galapagos archipelago located 600 miles from the western coast of Ecuador. Wildlife viewing is a highlight of any tour in the Galapagos; and we had seen plenty of land and marine creatures. But observing an actual birth was an unexpected bonus.

Blue footed boobies were plentiful on Santa Fe island.

We quickly paddled our kayak to the appointed spot and saw the furry baby snuggled under its mother. While we missed the actual emergence witnessed by the others, we still felt lucky to observe the earliest moments of this new life. Experiences like this made our Galapagos adventure with International Expeditions a trip to remember.

A puffed up frigate hopes to attract a mate.

We didn’t really get dirty, although we did get wet and sandy at times during our nature quests. Each day was filled with hiking and snorkeling as the MV Evolution sailed from one island to another, most uninhabited by humans.  Instead of people, iguanas, sea lions, fur seals, crabs, turtles—even penguins and flamingoes--populated the sandy beaches and volcanic landscapes over which we trekked. 

Soft white sand on Mosquera Island, home to hundreds of sea lions.

Puffed-up frigate birds, Darwin’s finches, elusive hawks and owls, and boobies (the red-footed and blue-footed varieties) provided entertainment during our twice-daily walks. We watched rituals such as frigates inflating their huge, red pouches and blue-footed boobies awkwardly dancing before mating. Beautifully colored fish, sharks, rays, tortoises, and sea lions turned our daily snorkeling excursions into playful episodes.

Swimming with sea turtles off Champion Island

Every day consisted of a morning walk or hike after breakfast followed by fresh fruit juices and snacks, and snorkeling before lunch.  Several of the guests relaxed (okay, splashed like little kids) in the hot tub after snorkeling.  After a short siesta, we did an afternoon hike, most often on another island.

Golden sunset at Commorant Point

Each evening our guides presented an informational program about what we had just seen and would see the following day, with an emphasis on land conservation and protecting indigenous species. After dinner we were free to enjoy the bar, swap experiences, or lounge on the outside decks looking at the night sky. Since we were kept busy and active, we appreciated whatever downtime we had.

A bit of silly fun after snorkeling

Larry and I traveled on a small ship (only 20 guests--with a maximum of 32), which allowed us to explore in friendly, manageable groups of 10. If you want to take children, look for trips specifically designed for families, including on small ships. If you think there won’t be enough onboard amenities to satisfy tweens and teens, consider a larger ship—one carrying 100 plus passengers--although the number of hikes and snorkeling opportunities may be limited.

Iguanas populate almost all the Galapagos Islands.
Our ship, the MV Evolution is in the background.

A Galapagos Island adventure is a nature-filled voyage to remote, protected, and sometimes desolate areas. This may not be everyone’s ideal vacation, but if you appreciate seeing wildlife in their natural habitat and experiencing a variety of island topographies, it’s a destination you’ll enjoy exploring. It’s a photographer’s paradise, too, so be sure to bring your camera.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Thinking about the Galapagos? Here are some great reasons to visit.




Hundreds of sea lions romp on the white sand of  Mosquera Beach.

If you love wildlife, on both land and sea, and enjoy being outdoors, the Galapagos Islands should be on your bucket list of places to travel.  I checked Galapagos off with a trip there in February, and here are several reasons you should consider this destination, too.

Flamingos grace the island of Floreana.

1. It’s all about the wildlife. Sea lions, iguanas, too many species of birds to remember, tortoises, and so many colorful fishes make each day a time of discovery.  What a delight to realize that penguins and flamingoes also inhabit different islands.



Blue-footed boobies perform an awkward dance.
Females have darker feet than males.

2. You can’t miss the blue-footed booby, whose funny dancing routine reminds you why its name means “clown.” Oh, there are red-footed boobies and nasca boobies, too.



Red-footed boobies and nasca boobies were plentiful, too.

3. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to witness the birth of a sea lion, blue-footed boobies mating, nesting bird feeding time, a rare owl, frigates inflating their red throats in a mating ritual, and other special animal behaviors.



I was so close when snorkeling I could touch
 the sea turtle under water.

4. Snorkeling with sea lions and turtles was a highlight of the excursion.

5. Even when landscapes are rather stark, there’s a certain beauty in the rock and lava formations, rugged cliffs, and desert cacti.



Black sand beach at Chino Sombrero Island.

6. Beautiful beaches ankle-deep in soft white sand or black sand beaches, depending on which island you’re visiting, lead into bright blue water.

7. Learn about Charles Darwin’s legacy. His theories came from a relatively short visit but have impacted science for centuries.



Tortoises live in protected areas on land and grow to
more than 100 years old.

8. See turtle breeding programs in action as you remember Lonesome George, the tortoise who lived more than 100 years but was the last of his species when he died in 2012.

9. Shop in the quaint town of Puerto Ayora, enjoy an ice cream, or visit the outdoor fish market.



We traveled on a small ship with International Expeditions.

10. Daily hikes let you experience the topography and specific wildlife inhabiting each island you visit.

11. Option to choose a small ship (30 or fewer people) or a larger vessel (120 plus passengers) depending on the activity level you’re comfortable with.

A trip to Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands is a nature-filled voyage to remote, protected, and sometimes desolate areas. But no matter which islands you visit and what activities you do, it’s a journey that reminds you how fragile our environment can be and that we must protect natural places like this for future generations. You’ll remember the trip for a long time.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

International Galapagos Tour Operators award $65,000 to Galapagos conservation

The International Galapagos Tour Operators Association (IGTOA) is a nonprofit association of travel companies dedicated to the complete and lasting protection of the Galapagos. Since 1997 IGTOA and its member companies have raised more than $600,000 USD--partly from tourist fees--in support of conservation in the Galapagos. I’m happy to report that this organization includes International Expeditions, a U.S. tour company we have traveled with several times.


Conservation is essential to preserve the Galapagos Islands.
Photo courtesy IGTOA

The archipelago’s endemic wildlife and natural beauty have made travel to the Galapagos Islands increasingly popular in recent years. The islands face serious environmental threats, including invasive species, which often outcompete or prey upon native and endemic species, illegal poaching and fishing, and population growth.

WildAid, The Charles Darwin Foundation CDF), Ecology Project International (EPI) and Friends of Galapagos New Zealand (FOGNZ) will receive a total of $65,000 from the International Galapagos Tour Operators Association this year to assist in efforts to conserve and protect the Galapagos Islands. The funds were raised through contributions from IGTOA member companies and donations from travelers to IGTOA’s Galapagos Traveler Conservation Fund.

"IGTOA continues to be a consistent ally in our efforts to conserve the Galapagos,´ said Marcel Bigue, WildAid’s Marine Program Director. “This year IGTOA funding has been especially critical in raising awareness among both residents and tourists with respect to the threats that invasive species pose to the Galapagos.”

Protection of native species is essential to the Galapagos.
Photo from bing.com

EPI co-founder Julie Osborn said, “Thanks to IGTOA’s support, EPI will bring dozens of local youth into the field to help study and protect giant tortoises. For many, it is their first opportunity to explore the National Park. Together we are creating the next generation of conservation leaders in one of the most unique ecosystems on the planet.”

"IGTOA and its member companies recognize that tour operators have an obligation to ensure that tourism remains a positive force in the Galapagos Islands," said Matt Kareus, Executive Director of IGTOA. "Through our Galapagos Traveler Conservation Fund our members and their travelers are able to support projects that will have a lasting, positive impact.”

Information courtesy of Emily Harley, IGTOA Vice President