Chase winter chills at the island of St. Kitts

Regarded by many visitors as the jewel of the Caribbean, the volcanic island of St. Kitts offers some of the region’s most dramatic panoramas and scenic photo opportunities. Intriguing coves, excellent interior hiking paths, and palm-lined beaches are hallmarks of this classic Caribbean destination.

Offshore view of St. Kitts

The easiest way to view the island, which is only 65 square miles, is aboard the historic St. Kitts Scenic Railway. You’ll travel 30 miles around the island on a narrow-gauge railway along a route where sugar cane was once carried from plantations. At one time St. Kitts was the leading sugar producer in the Caribbean, and the railway remains a vital part of the island’s economy. The train returns to the capital city of Basseterre, the island’s main shopping spot, where batik and local artwork are especially popular buys. 

Smooth sand and warm water on beaches of St. Kitts

For beaches and water sports, head south to Frigate Bay, where most of the hotels are located. The island’s best white-sand coves are just beyond at the Southeast Peninsula. Green vervet monkeys scamper freely here, often looking for a hand-out. Bird watching, scuba diving, and golf are popular activities. Year-round temperature averages a balmy 79 degrees, making these mountainous islands a great place for a winter or early spring vacation.

Mt.Liamuiga, a dormant volcano, is the highest point on St. Kitts at 3792 feet. Hiking to the summit is challenging, but once there you can descend into the crater on ropes for a truly unique experience. Black Rocks on St. Kitts’ northern shores were once molten lava deposits spit out by Mt. Liamuiga Walking along the rocks and boulders is like stumbling over an obstacle course, but the striking geological formations of black cliffs and boulders is one of St. Kitts’ most notable features.

On a catamaran excursion to snorkel

The complementary islands of St. Kitts and Nevis, a small, lush tropical paradise, became an independent state in 1983. You can completely circle the isle of Nevis in 20 minutes. Calm and quiet prevail here; crowds are usually nonexistent, even on Pinney’s Beach and Qualie Beach. The Botanical Garden of Nevis provides a shady retreat with one of the largest collections of palms and rare plants.

Fish gather by the wrecked boat

While visiting St. Kitts, we took a sail and snorkel excursion operated by Blue Water Safaris. We sailed on a catamaran down the island’s southwest coast to Shitten Bay, where mountains provided a welcome windbreak. Although the weather was partly cloudy and winds quite strong, water temperature remained a comfortable 82 degrees—except for people sitting on the trampoline section of the catamaran who got soaked as water splashed over the boat during our 45 minute ride.

Exiting the water from snorkeling

At the snorkel site the water was much calmer.  A wrecked boat by the shore provided a boundary and haven for fish.  With water 22 feet deep where the boat anchored, it was easy to stay away from large rocks under the surface and mustard-colored fire coral that stings if touched. In addition to numerous coral specimens, several varieties of large and small fish were sighted swimming beneath our masked faces.  Yellow and black striped fish and  iridescent blue fish swam provided color underwater. We also saw a small octopus stretching its tentacles on a rock, adding interest and surprise to our adventure at St. Kitts.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

                                                                 

 

St. Thomas lures vacationers to its sunny shores

St. Thomas, one of the U. S. Virgin Islands, became a tourist mecca in the 1950s—and it retains that distinction today. 

Perfect spot for a bit to eat--and drink.

As the Caribbean territory that lured more foreign nationals than any other, a variety of cultural influences are evident: Danish red tile roofs and architecture, Dutch doors, French iron grillwork, and Spanish-style patios. The flags of six countries have flown over these islands, which have been inhabited since 2500 B.C. During WWI the U.S. bought the Virgin Islands, located 40 miles east of Puerto Rico, for $25 million in gold. 

Catamaran fun!

Once the home of notorious pirates like Captain Kidd and Bluebeard, St. Thomas offers plenty of modern-day booty. The largest of the trio making up the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Thomas is clean and well-developed with many high-end resorts and shopping spots. It’s the commercial capital of the Caribbean, rich with history; and its azure waters on soft-sand beaches make it a prime destination for vacationers. 

 A few years ago my husband and I decided to sample the beautiful landscape of St. Thomas with a full day sail and snorkel excursion while cruising in the Eastern Caribbean on the Emerald Princess. We boarded the Dancing Dolphin catamaran, part of the fleet from Top Sails Company, where we met Christie, a twenty-something crew member originally from Connecticut who came on vacation and fell in love with the island. 

Docking at the beach

The sun was high in the sky at 9:00 am, keeping us warm as we headed away from shore. Just a few small swells and splashes came over the front “trampoline” as the crew put up sails and headed to Buck Island and Turtle Cove. The ride took about 45 minutes during which time Christie admonished a few impatient souls to “Get on island time.” 

 

Iguanas are also found on these islands.

At Turtle Cove we observed numerous large turtles on the ocean floor. Christie led the group to the reef where she explained different types of coral—fan, branches, balls. Some sting, so don’t touch, she warned. Snorkeling in clean, clear water, we could easily observe sea creatures and plants on the bottom, especially when the sun was shining. Many varieties of fish--yellow and black striped called Sergeant Major, small blue iridescent, larger silver (more than a foot long); small black, and others swam around the reef, in and out of underwater rock caves. 

Bright coral shined in the sun.

When the area became crowded with other boats it was time to head to remote Water Island and Honeymoon Beach. The crew raised sails and used wind power to slide the catamaran within a few yards of the beach. A freshly prepared Caribbean barbecue lunch (pork, chicken, pasta salad, green salad, bread, drinks) awaited us at water’s edge. 

Beverly found a sea urchin.

For more than an hour we walked on the soft sand, splashed in the clear water, and sipped plenty of “pain killer” (rum punch) to keep cool. Water Island is accessible only by ferry or dinghy, so not too many people go there. But for us it was the perfect retreat for a relaxing day on St. Thomas.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

To cruise or not to cruise?

Ultimately we decided to cruise

It was a dilemma between making what appeared to be the sensible choice and staying home or escaping the box we had been huddled in for almost two years. My brain had one solution, but my spirit had another. And that’s why Larry and I went on a cruise in early 2022, just as the omicron virus swept our state and county into the worst scenario since the pandemic began almost 2 years ago.

We had traveled during 2021, visiting Big Bend National Park in Texas in April and Fort Lauderdale, Florida in March. We celebrated our grandson’s high school graduation in Michigan in May. By July the virus had loosened its grip on our lives, and travel seemed okay again. So in August we swam with whale sharks off the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico and finally took the trip to Italy that had been rescheduled three times. We even visited Colorado for a glorious week hiking among the golden aspens of autumn. And all went well.

A previous Caribbean cruise was already booked for mid January, but the delta virus became a headliner, so we cancelled. Felt like that was the smart (safe) thing to do, and it was. But wanderlust crept into my consciousness, and by November I was ready to try again—just on a smaller scale.

Inviting pool area of the ship

Instead of flying to a Florida port for a 12-day cruise, maybe we could sail from Galveston, our state’s home port only a 3.5 hour drive away for a quick one-week excursion. We had received our two vaccines and would soon receive the booster shot, so, together with distancing and masking, we’d have ample protection. A cruise leaving on January 2 was booked.

Then omicron began spreading faster than milk spilled on the kitchen table. Friends on a long holiday cruise texted about not being able to disembark at most ports. They were stuck on the ship for weeks (at least it seemed that long) with not much to do except watch waves curl and splash in the ocean. The CDC began issuing dire warnings about ships with 10 or 20 or 50 people on board who tested positive for covid (not considering it was usually less than one percent of the number of people on board and most had very mild or no symptoms).

Still, being quarantined at sea in a small cabin would not be fun. Nothing adventurous about that.

One week before sailing we considered cancelling. Because our cruise line was allowing passengers to cancel up to 48 hours before sailing in return for full future cruise credit, people began doing just that.

For a few days, we had a new argument for going. With only about half the passengers still booked, social distancing would be easier, and service would likely be much improved. We began to reverse our decision. Call it rationalization or an actual shift in the likelihood of getting sick, we latched onto that fact. Also, all passengers and crew were required to be fully immunized, and we had to present a negative covid test taken two days before sailing.

 

The usual excitement was missing as we packed for the cruise. There were still so many unknowns, but we were willing to do our part to make this as personally safe as possible. That commitment and willingness to be extra vigilant on the cruise served us well.

Sailing day was uncharacteristically cold and windy as we drove to Galveston, Texas. Bundled in sweaters and puffy jackets, we parked the car, took the shuttle to the dock, and boarded the Royal Caribbean Liberty of the Seas. Fully vaccinated passengers were provided green wrist bands to be worn at all times. This would allow them access to certain dining areas, theater seating, and venues designated for vaccinated persons.

Fish and coral from our snorkeling
excursion at Roatan, Honduras

Because of predicted inclement weather, the captain changed the order of ports and headed to our southernmost stop in Roatan, Honduras. From there we would follow a northward journey that included Costa Maya and Cozumel. This new itinerary meant we had two sea days before docking--a brilliant decision that ultimately allowed passengers to have three perfect days for land activities. Winter in the Caribbean did not disappoint!

We were careful about our activities. We masked up indoors and also outdoors if there was a crowd of people around. We requested, and were given, a table for two in an out-of-the- way location but still by a window—the same table every evening in the main dining room.

We walked the promenade decks for additional exercise on sea days, played mini golf or ping pong when those venues were not crowded, and enjoyed our balcony when the weather warmed. We danced to our favorite band several nights and enjoyed a couple of game shows in vaccinated-only venues.

We rafted to a beautiful lagoon near Costa Maya, Mexico

We managed to catch the ice show before it was cancelled due to cast members quarantining (our green bracelets were checked). One main show in the theater was also cancelled, but the evening I forgot my green bracelet I was denied entry to the vaccinated seating section until I went back to the cabin to retrieve it. Tours were also lightly attended, with one of ours having only nine people and another only four.

Yet omicron continues to affect the cruising industry. Royal Caribbean and other cruise lines have cancelled many U.S. departures into March. As for Royal Caribbean, since the resumption of sailing, the total percentage of persons to become ill with the virus onboard their ships is 1.6, much lower than the general population in many areas. Crew members cannot leave the ship when in port, and some have had contracts extended longer than originally intended to shore up staff numbers. Senior officers became dining room servers when needed. Safety and service were still primary, and I give the cruise industry credit for doing the best they can.

We explored the ocean via a helmet dive 
at Cozumel, Mexico

Whether you decide to cruise in the coming months (assuming your cruise is not cancelled) is a personal choice. It’s a decision that only you can make by taking into consideration your medical situation and your tolerance for risk. Even as we know that all travel is inherently risky, we also know there are many benefits to exploring the rest of the world.

Swimming with whale sharks

Our day begins at sunrise. We are 13 adventurers on a trip with Natural Habitat Adventures to swim with whale sharks, the world’s largest fish. Anticipation is high as we are anxious to get started on our excursion.

Whale sharks are 5 time my length.

Our group had arrived on the tiny fishing island of Holbox (pronounced Ol-bosh) by ferry the day before. Situated off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, this laid-back village has quiet beaches but no paved roads. Transportation is by golf cart, substitute for a traditional taxi.

Larry rides from the ferry to our hotel via taxi.

On our way

Golf carts shuttle us the short distance from our hotel to the main dock of Holbox where we board two boats that will take us 20 miles out to sea. The ride will take about two hours and pass through the Gulf of Mexico into the Caribbean Sea. Around 8:00 a.m. we stop and consume breakfast sandwiches and juice on the boat to fortify us for the rest of the trip.

I'm forming the l in Holbox sign at the beach where we board our boat.

It’s a warm, sunny day in August--ideal conditions for locating whale sharks. Soon we arrive at an area where plankton, food for the sharks, are plentiful and near the surface. Dozens of whale sharks have gathered here to feed. Everyone is ecstatic since this means that opportunities to spot and then follow sharks in the water is great.

However, we are not alone. Many other boats have gathered in the same location. The tourist industry has recognized the economic value of tourists swimming with the sharks over fishing for them and reducing their numbers. The sharks are now protected in their native environment.

We go out to sea in search of whale sharks.

Everyone is eager to jump in the water, but that’s not how it happens. Regulations apply, so boats take turns allowing their guests into the water to avoid overcrowding.

Ready to swim

The process goes like this: Whoever is going into the water next sits on the edge of the boat, ready and fully outfitted with snorkel, mask, and fins until the guide spots a shark fin nearby above water and determines which way it is swimming. Quickly he orders “Go,” and you plunge into the water while trying to follow the guide who is swimming to in front of the shark.

Fins above water indicate where the whale sharks are.

We learn that when we hit the water it’s best to look up to see where the shark’s fin is rather than turning face down as for usual snorkeling. Otherwise, you might not know the direction the shark is swimming—and your turn is over very quickly if the shark swims out of view or decides to dive deeper.

Once in the water it’s quite a thrill to realize you are just a few feet—sometimes just inches—away from these magnificent creatures. Watching their bulky dot-patterned bodies maneuver so smoothly in the water is simply amazing.

Magnificent creatures!

Despite their size, whale sharks are gentle creatures. But close encounters are discouraged because the sharks are so large they could knock a person silly if there was a collision, and they have really big mouths!

It’s possible to try to swim to where a shark is, but you’re not likely to catch up or get a good look, so following the guide’s lead is important. Despite their length—up to 40 feet—the sharks swim fast. I quickly realized there would be no photography to record this adventure for posterity!

The first time Larry and I go we get caught in a tangle of thick yellow seaweed that obstructs our views. I go again, and this time is simply awesome—a close-up look at two sharks during the hectic—and tiring--few minutes of bobbing face down in ocean waves.

Larry and me scoping out the swimming whale sharks.

The next day we follow the same process, with each person getting two or three turns to be in the water. On one of our turns the shark swims extremely close to the boat just as Larry and I jump in the water. His movements are unpredictable, and I find myself literally staring into his mouth while frantically paddling to move away. I see his large tail flipping back and forth and just imagine the slap I might get if I’m in his path. I’m a minnow against the broad body of this giant fish!

Swim close but don't get in the way!

My last swim is the very best. With the guide showing me the way, I swim alongside the graceful whale shark for what seems like a long time but is probably only a few minutes.  I try to soak in every aspect of the magical experience—the shimmer of its skin in sunlight, the swish of its body turning in the water, and the thrill of interacting closely with one of nature’s special creatures in its home environment.

 Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier and free sources.

Tour an underwater national park by boat

People visit most national parks to see and enjoy the beauty of the land, whether majestic mountains, huge expanses of sand, or emerald forests dominate the landscape. But the most interesting parts of Biscayne National Park in Florida are underwater.

Sea life is the main attraction at Biscayne National Park.

On a March visit to Fort Lauderdale, Larry and I decided to take a day trip to this unusual park. Since it was early spring, we realized our visit would primarily involve exploration from a boat, as the bits of low-lying land included in the park seemed remote and insignificant. Indeed, after driving almost an hour and a half to get there, we felt eons away from civilization.

There’s beauty to be appreciated in the clear blue water, mangrove shoreline, and dark green woodlands that surround the 173,000 acres of designated park space. It’s a subtropical place where small islands (keys) harbor living coral reefs, a pristine wilderness along the southeast edge of the Florida peninsula.

Walk the pier at the Visitor Center for an introduction to open water. 

Home to one of the largest barrier reef ecosystems in the world, Biscayne National Park is more than 95 percent water. Established in 1968 to protect a rare combination of terrestrial and undersea life, the park also lends itself to recreation with great opportunities for snorkeling, boating, and fishing.

Sea birds are a common sight on
the jetty trail.

The day we visited happened to be quite cool and very windy. After arriving at the Visitor Center, we watched a film explaining how all the plant and animal life in Biscayne Bay, the Keys, and the mangroves are interwoven with each other and with humans.

Since our Heritage of Biscayne boat tour wasn’t scheduled until early afternoon, we walked along the jetty trail to get a sense of the landscape. The land is filled with a collection of trees, ferns, vines, flowers, and shrubs that thrive in the warm, wet climate.

On the boat tour we learned history of this ocean region.

We joined five other people on a wet and wild ride across the bay, with a couple of stops to explain some of the history of this region. We heard about Adams Key, the Sterling homestead, and brothers Arthur and Lancelot Jones, who learned that being a fishing guide was more profitable than farming. Many legends abound of pirates, buried treasure, shipwrecks, and treacherous reefs.

The longest stop on our three and a half hour boat ride was at Boca Chita, a former party island for wealthy visitors. In fact, a fake lighthouse was built on the island to help direct partiers to the right spot. Today, luxury boats can dock for a nightly fee, or people can go this peaceful place to camp and picnic.

Boca Chita is still a favorite day trip or overnight camping spot.

At the center of Biscayne’s underwater world are the coral reefs that built the Florida Keys. The 150-miles-long chain of coral reefs has created a tropical paradise. If you have time to explore onshore, you can see fossil coral rock on the islands of Biscayne. By having national park status, the crystal waters are now protected from pollutants and construction runoff that threatened the land in the early 1900s.

Palm trees swaying in the breeze remind you of a tropical paradise.

Popular with snorkelers and scuba divers, the shallow water reefs are filled with light and life. Brilliantly colored tropical fish and other sea creatures attract people fascinated by the multitude of sea inhabitants. 

It’s a different kind of national park, an undersea world that we would like to explore another time. Maybe someday we’ll get back for a summer visit and the opportunity to be dazzled by the wild spectrum of colorful sea life in Biscayne National Park.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

 

Love nature? Head to Corcovado National Park in Costa Rica

The coastline of Osa Peninsula is studded with palm trees and volcanic boulders.

For sheer diversity of flora and fauna, you can’t beat the “Amazon of Costa Rica,” Corcovado National Park. But it’s not easy to get to. In fact, our journey there from Tortuguero National Park on the Caribbean side of Costa Rica, was an adventure itself, requiring transportation by plane, van, boat, and tractor.

Our destination was Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge on the Osa Peninsula, a shoe-shaped piece of land that juts out into the ocean at the southern end of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast.

The adventure begins

Taking to the air on the first leg of our journey to Osa Peninsula

First we flew via chartered plane to the peninsula. Then we rode by van to Drake Bay, stopping briefly in the village of Ajujitas to learn about perfectly round rock balls and their cultural importance in ancient times.

Lots of travel by water in this region

Next we boarded a motorboat that sped for half an hour through open water. Dense vegetation, beaches, and sea birds captured our attention during that ride. As we approached shore, fierce waves crashed against huge boulders that the captain had to maneuver around.

Because docks are not allowed in this remote area, we waded ashore and walked on a pebble-studded beach before boarding a trailer pulled by a tractor that carried us up the steep hill to Casa Corcovado. There are no roads to this deluxe outpost, but that allows nature to take center stage. 

Casa Corcovado Lodge is a luxury eco-lodge on the edge of Corcovado National Park, crown jewel of Costa Rica’s park system. Situated on a 170-acre private reserve, its hill-top location offers stunning views of one of the world’s last true wildernesses. From there we were able to explore the extensive rain forest, including some of the largest trees on Central America and the densest population of scarlet macaws.

Our cottage--luxury even in remote wilderness

Following a late al fresco lunch at the Lodge, we walked the Sendero Azul, a short private trail on the reserve.  Woody vines, towering trees, and massive palms lined the way. As we meandered along the route, we observed sloths, monkeys, and many intriguing species of birds--eventually capping the day off by watching a brilliant orange sunset glow over the ocean while sipping cool drinks from Margarita’s Bar.

Glorious sunsets provided a perfect ending to each adventurous day.

Exploring Corcovado National Park

Entering the rain forest where we marveled at  the variety of flora and fauna

The next day was one for exploration of Costa Rica’s last wilderness frontier and one of the world’s most biologically diverse regions. Corcovado National Park encompasses 103,000 acres and includes at least 13 ecosystems which provide protection for a multitude of endemic wildlife and plant species. It supports one of the world’s largest remaining lowland rain forests and species such as scarlet macaws, toucans, parrots, four monkey species (we saw all) and jaguars (rarely seen).

Trees are huge; in this case two grew together via a connecting horizontal root.

Our group trekked a challenging path made more uncomfortable because of the hot and humid weather (expected in a rain forest). Eventually, we arrived at the coast and enjoyed gazing out to sea, as the surf rushed to the beach, breaking over large lava boulders on the way.

Corcovado also functions as a marine sanctuary, protecting coral reefs, lagoons, rivers and estuaries, as well as 23 miles of palm-studded beaches. Crocodiles, whales, and dolphins can be found in surrounding waters as are all four species of turtles.

Nature shows off butterflies, birds, monkeys, and so much in Corcovado National Park. 

Snorkeling around a reef

The next day’s snorkeling adventure allowed us to sample more of the park’s pristine scenery,  despite getting drenched before leaving Osa Peninsula. Strong waves made the exit to open water so treacherous that the boat was inundated with water before we could begin the 45-minute cruise to Isla del Cano and the Biological Reserve there.

Larry prepares to snorkel at Isla del Cano.

But who cares when you going snorkeling? For almost an hour we splashed our way around a coral reef, photographing multiple species of fish (including a shark) that swim in and around the various formations. Pleasant water and a picturesque underwater tableau made this an adventure to remember.

Back at the Lodge, our group walked through a garden looking for hummingbirds. Later, at the solar pool on-sight, we spotted a rarely-seen speckled owl in a nearby tree. The local guides took much interest in my pictures.

A beautiful scarlet macaw.

After checking out the spring-fed pool on a lower level, we walked to Margarita’s for another glorious sunset and to ponder the wonders of Costa Rica that we had seen and experienced so far on this trip.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Pacific Ocean snorkeling from Fiji

If you love snorkeling, as Larry and I do, we’ve got some beautiful pictures for you. During our recent cruise across the Pacific Ocean towards Australia, we stopped at several islands where snorkeling was our activity of choice.

Overall, there’s no better place to see beautiful coral and fish than islands of the South Pacific. While not all the islands have wonderful white sand beaches, many have lagoons protected by massive coral reefs. This makes for ideal snorkeling conditions (or diving, if you’re certified).

One port where we had a snorkeling excursion was Lautoka, Fiji.  Lautoka is the second largest city of Fiji and is located in the west of the island of Viti Levu. Known as the Sugar City because of its sugar cane farms and mills, Lautoka also offered equally notable snorkeling featuring a variety of coral species as well as fish. It provided our first set of outstanding underwater photos on this trip (more destinations to be described later).

One afternoon we took a speed boat ride to Beachcomber Island, so we were able to get there in half the time of a catamaran. The large passenger boat sped through translucent waters, while we enjoyed views of mountains and seaside villas of Viti Levu. On arrival at the island, those who wanted to snorkel boarded another boat for a short ride to a coral reef. Others could stay on Beachcomber Island to swim, snorkel, or just relax.

We gathered our gear (equipment provided if needed, but we bring our own) and were off to the reef. There we were rewarded with bountiful views of beautiful fish—tiny blue fish darting around, tiger fish with black stripes, schools of small black fish, larger iridescent fish sashaying their way through the water, and gorgeous rainbow-colored fish (wish I knew all the real names!). 

For us the task was to photograph these ocean creatures quickly with our underwater cameras before they sped out of sight or disappeared into deep water on the other side of the reef. Of course, we took time to simply float and observe these spunky marine creatures, sometimes following a sparkling fish that caught our eye. In addition, there was ample coral to admire.

I hope you enjoy this sample of photos that Larry and I took during that excursion.