A day on the Mekong Delta

A visit to Vietnam would not be complete without a trip to the Mekong Delta. in southern Vietnam. You can spend days, even weeks, visiting the region in southern Vietnam. With only a day to visit from Ho Chi Minh City during our recent cruise, we a second visit to this incredible (and expansive) area would be worthwhile.

Boats take locals and visitors between islands and 
the mainland.

Fifth largest in the world, the Mekong River starts in the Himalayan Mountains of Tibet. The resulting delta is a vast maze of rivers, swamps, and islands. Boats are the main means of transportation, and floating markets are popular among locals and tourists.

Fish lunch prepared by a local lady

Life in the area revolves around water with farming and fishing supporting 20 million Vietnamese. The Delta is renowned as the “rice bowl of Vietnam” because more than half of Vietnam’s rice (and fish) comes from the region. For this reason, the Delta is essential to the Vietnamese economy and diet.

With this background, I will describe our most recent excursion through the small waterways of the Mekong. Upon arriving at the Delta, we took a boat ride to Thoi Son Island, one of several in the area where people live. After disembarking we walked to the village where we planned to interact with and learn more about the unique life of the locals.

Bee pollen tea and fried banana strips

 

Bee keeping is popular and useful as we learned when we were served a snack of tasty banana strips fried in honey and tea flavored with honey bee pollen. Flowers and fruits were plentiful--among them the durian, a very stinky Asian fruit that people either love or hate.

Dorian is a "love or hate" fruit.

Making coconut candy

Coconuts are a staple food in Vietnam. Every part has a use, from food to lotions to cleaning supplies. Our guide broke open a coconut and showed how the milk is saved and processed into candy and other products. All processing is done by hand—no machines are used. We watched a local lady make coconut candy by flattening the mound of cooked coconut and then cutting it into strips. The result is a sweet, chewy treat that is the consistency of peanut butter. Ultimately other ladies cut the candy strip into pieces which were individually wrapped by hand for sale.

Assortment of tropical fruits

Later a group of locals sang traditional songs for us while we enjoyed pieces of different tropical fruits and jasmine tea. What a treat it was for some of our group to be invited to dance with them.

Typical houses on the island are very basic, possibly with open sides, perhaps a small porch, and equipment for outside chores nearby. Yards as we know them were nonexistent, Stepping stones made paths to keep shoes and feet from getting muddy with frequent rains. Colorful flowers and edible plants seemed to grow wild.

A typical home on the island of Thoi Son

After these experiences, we boarded a sampan (like a canoe) for a journey down the Mekong River. Our boat was paddled by a “little old lady” who sat cross-legged and barefoot as she deftly maneuvered through palm trees lining the banks. For protection from the sun she wore a wide-brimmed had made of rice straw, which we learned was waterproof and would last about two years. We made sure to sit as still as possible in order not to tip the boat (the water was not inviting), even while sampling fresh coconut milk.

Sampan ride down the Mekong River

Ferries transport people and goods from one island to another during the day. However, residents are able to provide for most of their needs on their own island, meaning they live a very simple, almost cloistered,  lifestyle. As we returned to the mainland we passed various fishing boats, many adorned with “eyes” intended to keep evil away.

Fishing boats

Vietnam remains a poor rural country. Farmers and fishermen face many challenges in the Delta these days, including sea level rise, land subsidence, increasing salinity, and shifting water regimes. It’s not an easy life—far from the bustle and hustle of ever-growing cities that may be all some visitors see of the country.

However you arrive in Vietnam, by land or sea, plan to include some time on the Mekong Delta.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Misty magic of the Faroe Islands

I once read a quote from Dalai Lama that perfectly expressed how I feel about travel: “Once a year go somewhere you have never been before.” It’s inspiring to know such a laudable person shares my life philosophy—at least on this point.

A fishing village nestled on the coast of the Faroe Islands

Last summer, I managed to visit several places I had never been before, but among the most unusual was Faroe Islands, a collection of 18 small islands (17 inhabited) in the North Atlantic.

The history of the Faroes began when Irish monks came more than 200 years before Norse settlers arrived in 850 A.D. Vikings later drove them out, and Norwegians ruled until Denmark took over.

The Faroe Islands are still part of Denmark, although the islands became autonomous in 1948 after World War II. Cultural and financial connections to Denmark are strong. For example, every citizen receives an annual stipend from the Danish government, and they use Danish coins but have their own paper bills.

Ancient volcanic activity left its mark on the landscape of Faroe Islands

I was amazed at how green and lush the countryside was. At first glance, that is. As we drove north from the capital city of Torshavn, the landscape revealed its volcanic origins. Created 65 million years ago from tremendous upheavals, the islands are marked by deep crevices, giant clefts, and rough ridges. No trees grow in the inhospitable rock, which makes the soil almost impossible to cultivate. In fact, the only crop is grass, which is dried and bundled into hay to feed livestock, mostly sheep (Faroe means “sheep,” which outnumber people here).

Deep clefts on the mountain side make the land mostly unusable.

No volcanic activity has been recorded in modern times, however, so I felt safe. The day was chilly, windy, and foggy (normal, in other words). Because of the rugged terrain and blustery winters, numerous tunnels have been cut through the mountains—two also go under the sea—to provide year-round passage.

If you’re getting the picture that the Faroe Islands are a difficult place to live, you are right. Often young people leave the islands to study and work—and many (especially women) don’t come back.

A squiggly road traverses the mountain on its way to the village.

But I was delighted to experience tunnels, seaside villages, and vast expanses of green grassy pastures. On the way to the island of Eystuoy, we drove up a mountain along a thoroughly squiggedly road until we came to a viewpoint overlooking a beautiful view of the ocean—a postcard perfect scene of cloud-shrouded hillside guarding a remote fishing settlement.

Fishing for cod, haddock, and mackerel and salmon farming (the ring)
are important to the economy of the Faroe Islands.

The fish industry is the economic mainstay of the Faroe Islands, and that includes salmon farming which has grown to 40% of the total export value. Fortunately, fishing can be done year round because the Gulf Stream rims the Faroe Islands and keeps the climate milder than you might expect from its northern oceanic location.

Gorgeous cliffs at the village of Eioi on the island of Eystuoy.

Our journey continued on to Eioi, a tiny village with only 30 permanent inhabitants. Eioi means “cliff,” which is appropriate since tall, craggy cliffs guard a very narrow channel into open water. In recent years, people have begun to build summer houses here. Call them tourists, if you like, but they respect tradition and maintain the custom of using grass for roofs, a good means of insulation.

Grass roofs utilize a commodity that is native to the islands.

Throughout our travels from Torshavn, tiny clusters of homes dotted the coastline, while sparkling waterfalls tumbled down hillsides on their way to the ocean. Knowing that the idyllic setting belies the adverse living condition of the Faroe Islands, I cherish the memories of hazy mist drifting over verdant hillsides even more.

Waterfalls take a circuitous path down the mountains.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

Don't call it off-season: Visit Grand County, Colorado in spring or fall

When visitors think of northern Colorado, two seasons come to mind: summer and winter. But there’s a great time to visit after the music concerts and festivals of summer have ended and before snow-packed activities of winter begin. If the opportunity to savor the scenery and hike or bike in relative serenity is more your style than shuffling through crowds, consider visiting towns in Grand County during the fall.

Aspens around Winter Park, Colorado glow in autumn
as leaves turn golden

Fall is an absolutely glorious time to enjoy the amenities—natural and manmade--of the Winter Park-Fraser Valley region, located 65 miles west of Denver. Golden aspens glow in the sunlight during late September when temperatures are cool in early morning and shirt-sleeve warm in the afternoon. There’s still time before snowfall to enjoy the lakes, either boating or fishing, or to check hot-air ballooning off your bucket list.

Here are some favorite activities to try before the snow returns (or after it melts):

Arrive in Grand Country from Denver by driving Berthoud Pass, a scenic highway that twists and turns its way through thick forests and past gushing waterfalls, summiting at the Continental Divide.

Water flows to both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans from
the Continental Divide in Colorado.

There’s a reason the region is called “Mountain Bike Capital U.S.A. It doesn't matter if you are a serious gear head or just interested in seeing the mountains in a new way, there are 600 miles of mountain bike trails that will satisfy beginner to expert bikers.

Saddle up. In Grand County, horseback riding isn't just a hobby — it's a way of life.

Grand Lake offers many recreational opportunities.

Sail on Grand Lake, Colorado's largest natural lake,which is known for spectacular views of peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Spend a night outdoors and get reacquainted with nature at one of Grand County's many public campgrounds.

Play a round at Pole Creek Golf Club in Winter Park, which has 27 holes on three courses. You’ll love how your game improves in the thin air. Golf balls not only travel further at higher altitude, but they spin less, too, meaning straighter approach shots (in theory anyway!).

You won't worry about where the golf ball lands when you have
scenery on the golf course this beautiful to grab your attention.

Paddle a canoe or kayak or cast your line on Monarch Lake, a small, scenic lake at the foot of the Indian Peaks southeast of Lake Granby (which is also a great fishing spot). On some days, your only competition for fish will be nesting ospreys.

Trail Ridge Road in Rocky Mountain National Park is an exquisite
drive in fall--before it's covered with winter's snow.

Head to Rocky Mountain National Park and drive Trail Ridge Road. It’s a postcard in your windshield, a breathtaking view at every turn. Hike trails along the way, or bike down Trail Ridge Road when it is open.

Wild Horse Inn is an excellent place to relax and enjoy any
season in Winter Park, Colorado.

On the other hand, if your idea of the perfect vacation is peaceful relaxation in a rustic setting, check into Wild Horse Inn, an intimate bed and breakfast just outside Winter Park. A little further down the road you’ll find the larger Devil’s Thumb Ranch Resort and Spa with more amenities—a great place if you prefer restful fun with a bit of zing for your holiday.

Think of Grand County as a four-season destination, with lesser-visited late spring and fall among the most glorious times to arrive.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Drive the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia

On a recent trip, we discovered the beautiful RoanokeValley in the Blue Ridge Mountain region of Virginia. The city of Roanoke is the largest metropolitan area along the Blue Ridge Parkway, but there are plenty of small towns to visit with wonderfully friendly people.


View of Abbott Lake at Peaks of Otter Lodge

Although we  checked out several counties over four days, we didn’t cover the entire Blue Ridge Parkway. I’d love to come back and explore the full 469 miles of picturesque scenery that runs through Virginia and North Carolina. This thin ribbon of road on the ridge of mountains that are older than the Alps or Himalayas connects two national parks--Shennandoah and Great Smokey Mountains.


Mountain reflections in Abbott Lake.

With a 40 mph speed limit, the Parkway is designed for leisure travel. To really enjoy the views, visitors should take their time and schedule numerous side trips on foot, horseback, or bicycle or by boat. That's the best way to understand why the Blue Ridge Parkway is called America's Favorite Journey.

Hike and Bike


One of the bridges on the Roaring Run hike

Opportunities are plentiful for breaks on your road trip. Explore, discover, and renew your spirit on trails, at overlooks, and also  at concerts. Hike through serene natural areas and learn about historic sites. Trails vary from short jaunts that are great for stretching your legs to longer excursions in the mountains. Well-known trails include Peaks of Otter, Rocky Knob, Humpback Rocks, and along the James River.  At Roaring Run, a six-tenths mile trail featuring scenic bridges, overlooks, and a waterfall, an old historic furnace is the focal point.

Learn about coal mining at the
historic furnace at Roaring Run.

Bicyclists have a little more difficulty as elevation ranges from 649 to 6,047 feet, and there are no dedicated bike lanes on the Parkway. But, if riding is your thing, the Blue Ridge Mountains in southwest Virginia provide some of the best mountain biking on the East Coast.

Parks like New River Trail State Park, which runs parallel to the New River for 39 miles, offer excellent biking trails. Virginia’s Explore Park, at milepost 115 on the Blue Ridge Parkway, just east of Roanoke, offers terrain for bike riders of all skill levels.

Get on the water

Despite its name, New River is reputed to be the oldest river in North America. It’s designated as an American Heritage River, and small boats can easily navigate its class 1-3 rapids. The James and Roanoke Rivers are also suitable for paddling by canoe or kayak.

Spend a day swimming or boating at Smith Mountain Lake, the “Jewel of the Blue Ridge Mountains.” Located in a state park in Franklin County, it is the second largest and most popular freshwater lake in Virginia.



Smith Mountain Lake is a prime place for all kinds of
water fun--swimming, fishing, house boating, sailing, and more.
 

Tackle the Appalachian Trail
More than one-fourth of the Appalachian Trail lies in Virginia. The AT roughly parallels the Parkway from mile 0 at Rockfish Gap to mile 103 and can be accessed from numerous locations in the Blue Ridge region. If you choose to hike the AT for a few hours or for weeks, you’ll enjoy some breathtaking views.

One of the most photographed spots on the AT is McAfee Knob with excellent views of Catawba Valley. It’s easily accessible just west of Roanoke on Rt. 311 and will take a couple of hours to complete round trip.

Stay awhile

Fishing is a popular activity at rivers along the Blue Ridge Parkway.
Horseback riding, farmers' markets, and music concerts are other attractions.

The Roanoke Valley offers a variety of lodging choices for every budget including historic hotels, luxury waterfront suites and cottages, small hotels, and camping spots. Stay at one place and take day trips, or drive along the Parkway each day, stopping for various activities along the way (That’s what I’d like to do).

During our mid-September visit, leaves were just hinting of color, so I think October would be a perfect time to return. Cool temperatures, trees splashed with brilliant fall foliage, and great hiking weather would make this a memorable drive.

To help plan your trip, get the official publication of the Blue Ridge Parkway Association, which includes suggestions of places to pause or stay and their milepost locations.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier

 

Rowley Bay Resort--Door County's largest on the waterfront

 

Zipping through the forest.

I’ve been on ziplines many times, but last summer I had the opportunity to be an inaugural guest at a new zipline before it was even open to the public. Not sure if being a guinea pig was smart, but zipping the four lines through a forest canopy at Rowley’s Bay Resort in Door County, Wisconsin, turned out just fine.

We arrived at Rowley’s Bay Resort, a folksy property that has been run by the same family for more than 40 years, on a warm summer day, perfect weather for all the outdoor activities that guests come there to enjoy. Located just north of Sister Bay, it’s situated on 100 secluded acres along a Lake Michigan bay--a peaceful setting for relaxing or following outdoor pursuits.

While I’m more of a fair-weather tourist when it comes to northern climates, the resort operates year-round and welcomes winter guests to cozy cottages and suites with access to an indoor pool, exercise room, library, and glowing lobby fireplace. Bird-watching is a four season activity, with about 200 species passing through annually.

Rowleys Bay Restaurant serves traditional food--and plenty of  it.

But back to our summer visit. With the addition of DC AdventureCenter, a recreational partner at the resort, there are myriad activities to keep guests busy.  If regular zip lining is too tame, try one of their glowstick nighttime zip line tours. They also offer a variety of kayak tours and rentals, including guided tours of Lake Michigan and Green Bay, If you’re nimble in the water, hop on a stand-up paddleboard and skim down the bay to the Mink River Estuary where you can see a variety of lakeside flora and fauna.

Start a variety of water activities from the dock at Rowleys Bay.

May through October are the magic months for outdoor activities. Reel Addiction Charters gives fishermen have the only direct access to legendary Four Foot Shoal, one of the best places to catch trophy king salmon on Lake Michigan. Just steps away from the resort, you can launch water craft for canoeing, kayaking, sailing or windsurfing. Bring your own gear or rent it there. If that’s not enough, loosen your limbs on five miles of hiking trails (ski trails in winter) or strike up a game of tennis, volleyball, or basketball at on-site courts.

Another favorite activity is the off-road Segway adventure on the resort’s trail network. Oversized tires allow the Segways to traverse trails and absorb bumps with ease. Set up a tour with Seaquist Segway located beside the DC Adventure Center building.

Charlie, a former theater teacher, uses his
drama skills to portray original settler
Peter Rowley. 

A highlight of our visit was an entertaining presentation in which an 87-year-old local storyteller named Charlie played the part of Peter Rowley, namesake of the bay who sojourned to this area 150 years ago. He tells the story of the bay’s early days interspersed with details of the traditional fish boil, a delightful experience that never fails to amaze visitors.

The explosive finale of a traditional fish boil
leaves the whitefish tasting delicious.

As each ingredient was added to the cauldron of water boiling outside, “Peter” described the process. Red potatoes are first, followed by tiny sweet onions. Locally caught whitefish are added just before kerosene is thrown on the fire, and the pot boils over in a spectacle of flames.

The fish is then served at a massive buffet dinner featuring a large variety of meats, vegetables, salads, and desserts. I sampled several pieces of cardamon bread, a traditional Swedish coffee cake served by Jewel Ouradniks, co-owner and manager of the resort. I left with one of the famous half-pound pecan rolls from Grandma’s Swedish Bakery, started by Jewel’s mother Alice, whose recipes are faithfully followed today.

Photos by Larry and Beverly Burmeier